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Game-changing sunscreen chemical BEMT wins final FDA approval

Stock image of woman applying sunblock on her shoulder
paultarasenko - stock.adobe.com
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Stock image of woman applying sunblock on her shoulder

A new type of sunscreen will be available in the United States for the first time in over 25 years. And experts say it's a game changer.

This week, the Food and Drug Administration gave its final approval to a chemical called bemotrizinol, or BEMT.

Researchers say BEMT is more effective than other ultraviolet filters, which don't always deliver the level of sun protection promised on their labels.

"It is expected and shown to be much less absorbed into the bloodstream, so we don't have some of those side effects, hormones, allergies, etc. that some of the chemical sunblocks do," said Dr. Gian Vinelli, chief of dermatology with Rochester Regional Health.

BEMT has been sold in Asian and European markets for more than 20 years and there has been a lot of social media buzz among skincare enthusiasts around the anticipated FDA approval. There are more rigorous safety standards in the United States for sunscreens, which are considered over-the-counter medications. In Europe sunscreens are treated as cosmetic products.

In 2020, the FDA published a clinical trial confirming that six active chemical sunscreen ingredients — avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate — are rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream and remain in the body for extended periods. Researchers said further study was needed to determine the long-term clinical significance, but some of the chemicals might act as hormone disruptors.

Since that research came out, Vinelli has told his patients to use mineral sunblocks that contain zinc oxide or titanium oxide. Now, with another safe option available, he said he will recommend it. And he thinks people will prefer it over some of the mineral products.

"A lot of my patients really don't want to wear a thick (layer) of sunscreen, very white, very obvious," he said, "especially on skin of color, it's really not cosmetically the best option. So, having something like this, I think, would be fantastic."

The Dutch company DSM Nutritional Products will have exclusive rights to BEMT in the United States for 18 months. The company will market products containing their bemotrizinol formulation as Parol Shield.

The first products are expected to be available in the United States before the end of the year.

Beth Adams is the local host of All Things Considered for WXXI News. She joined WXXI as host of Morning Edition in 2012 after a more than two-decade radio career. She was the longtime host of the WHAM Morning News in Rochester. Her career also took her from radio stations in Elmira, New York, to Miami, Florida.